Foteini Kalogeraki

I grew up playing under the plane tree in Splantzia Square, back when the quarter was still considered a quiet backwater rather than anywhere visitors bothered with. On camera I walk the square after dark, showing the cafes filling in under the old tree, then lead you to the nearby church of Agios Nikolaos, which carries both a bell tower and a minaret from when the building changed hands between faiths. I explain how the neighbourhood kept its Ottoman-era street plan even as everything around it changed. I like showing how a quiet square can hold this many layers of history at once.