Inês Rocha

I worked behind bars in Cais do Sodré for nine years, from the old sailors' taverns on Rua Nova do Carvalho to cocktail places that did not exist when I started. So yes, I know where to drink, but mostly I know which places are worth it and which are a tourist tax with a neon sign. My nights out start early by Lisbon standards, around eight, with petiscos and a glass of vinho verde, then move uphill to Bairro Alto when the streets fill. I grew up in Campo de Ourique, which is why my food tour happens there and not downtown: it is where Lisbon families actually shop, and the market still sells fish in the morning. I also sing a bit. I speak Portuguese, English and Spanish. From Lisbon, I now guide on live video with my phone, and the chat stays open for your questions the whole time.