Silvia Ortega Nieto

I live in the Realejo, Granada's old Jewish quarter, and I split my calls between how it feels by day and how it feels once the bars fill in the evening. During the day I point out the few street names and markers that hint at a community expelled centuries ago, since almost nothing survives above ground otherwise. At night the same streets fill with a completely different energy, and I walk them slowly, explaining which bars have kept their character longest. I keep both sessions honest about how much of the older history has to be pointed out rather than simply seen.