Ciro Esposito

I grew up two minutes from the cathedral, in a family that still goes to see the vial of San Gennaro's blood on the feast days each year, so I know the building's rhythms better than its official history alone would teach anyone. On camera I like starting underground instead, in the old Greek and Roman tunnels beneath the streets, since most visitors have no idea Naples has a second city running beneath the one they are walking through. Above ground I keep close to Spaccanapoli, the long straight street that splits the old centre exactly the way the Greeks first laid it out.